It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the selection of tools at your hardware or home improvement store.  As a general rule, I rely on the old adage that you get what you pay for. That means, on a limited budget, I pay what I can for what I consider specialty tools and spend the most I can on standard tools that I use the most and hope will last the longest. A well-made, strong set of pliers can often spare me from tantrums and further damaging the stuff I set out to repair.

But the rub always seems to be how many, of what kind, and which quality of manufacture are appropriate for the most critical jobs around the home.  When assembling your home toolkit consider which jobs you’re currently capable of doing and which ones you plan on punting over to the professionals.

A Dizzying Array of Pliers

Considering that my hands can only grip and apply a limited about of force on home hardware, I desperately need a reliable set of pliers—in fact several sets.  My toolkit always has one-each of sturdy needle-nose, slip-joint, linesmen’s, and lock-joint pliers.

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There’s always a best choice set of pliers for the job at-hand.

Here’s what I have:

•    Channel-locks are okay for tightening or removing nuts, bolts, and screws IF you don’t have a matching, open-end wrench that fits perfectly. They’re angled perfectly for getting my elbow grease into the job.

•    Slip-joint pliers, the kind most people pick up at discount stores or garage sales, come in two sections held by a center axle that shifts from loose to tighter. They’re good for general use but, frankly, are terrible for gripping wire, or rounded pipe, or for getting a great hold on nuts and bolts.

•    Linesman’s pliers are indispensable pivoting pliers that work perfectly well for gripping, bending, and snipping wire.

•    Needle-nose pliers can save you from the loony bin when you have to get a purchase on a small or hard-to-reach piece of hardware.

While you’re shopping, you can also find cutting pliers, midget pliers, plumber’s pliers, crimpers and strippers, duckbill pliers, and parrot-nose pliers.

Confused? Consider buying a few of the pliers that serve the most-often uses where you have direct experience.  You may be amazed how much easier repairs can be when you have the right tools.

You’d be amazed how many people ruin their kitchen or bathroom faucets and shower heads attempting to remove the aerator and clear mineral build-up. While clearing a faucet is a simple job, you still need basic skills in how to protect your hardware from tool damage. It’s part of your Basic Home Repair 101 course, but if you’re like some of my relatives, you prefer employing brute force rather than common sense.

In a previous blog, I wrote about fixing leaky faucets and probably should have written about simple cleaning first. The minerals in your water source form sediment that cakes and clogs your sink and shower aerators. It’s mostly calcium and is harmless, even though it creates small maintenance projects.

At home my well water deposits white coatings on my shower head, which then distributes water right out the side window or on the curtain. I use an off-the shelf product that removes calcium, lime, and rust in minutes. Of course, old plumber’s folklore and present practice include soaking your aerators and heads in simple white vinegar. Warm vinegar melts the sediment off overnight.

Next, you puncture the spray holes in the shower head with a push pin to finish off the job.

Take Some Care and Save Your Hardware

You’re going to need a set of pliers to loosen the casing and remove the aerator from the faucet or shower head. Now comes the little class secret: wrap the teeth of your pliers (on the action end) with electrical tape to spare your hardware from scrapes, gouging, bending, or crushing.  Once the end is safely rotated loose, you may need a thin blade or knife to pry out the aerator.

Here are other precautions:

•    Be sure you close the drain and turn off the water supply to your tap.
•    Loosen the casing with a set of pliers or monkey wrench.
•    Remove the aerator and soak in vinegar or safe home improvement product.
•    Clean all masks or aerators, gaskets, heads, and spray holes.
•    Tighten, open water supply and drain.

I use gloves and take a stiff brush to the hardware before rinsing it with clear water. I have a friend who made the mistake of washing the hardware in the same kitchen sink where he had removed the aerator. Old habits die hard.

While you’re at this project, it’s not a bad idea to add in related work, like clearing your drains, and repairing damaged hardware. Need a new disposal? Now’s a good time to think about it.

If you’ve never sliced the top of your thumb cutting open the edge of a tube of caulk, you have greater dexterity than most part-time home handy workers. I grew up around ratchet-rod caulk guns and cursed a few. Today’s drip-free caulking guns operate by a spring-loaded pressure rod that works smoothly from the pressure of your finger.  A quick trip to the hardware or home improvement store can convince you that there’s a wider selection of caulks and guns than you’ve seen before.

You need the right caulk for your project-at-hand. Shop wisely and ask a clerk for help. Generally speaking, you’re probably looking for:

• Silicone Caulk: for a premium-grade, waterproofing job. Great for kitchens and baths
• Vinyl Latex Caulk: for a water-resistant, quick adhesive job in wet areas of the bath
• Butyl Rubber Caulk: for sealing outdoor gutter seams, storm doors, and windows

Caulking, Simplified

So you have the caulk in the gun and you’re ready. Hold on, turbo! Even the best-quality caulk may have trouble adhering to a dirty surface or crease filled with remnants of old caulk. It won’t adhere to soap, either, so clean the surface with plain, warm water.  To root out old caulk, you need anything from a sharp blade (for silicone) to a heat gun, screwdriver, or caulk softener (for latex or acrylic).

Cut the tip of the caulk cartridge at the business end of the gun to match the depth of your job. Use steady pressure on the trigger as you work the tip at a 45-degree angle to the area you’re filling. And here’s a tip you might otherwise overlook: always caulk a bathtub when it’s filled with water.  Otherwise the tub rides high and when it’s filled for the first time, the weight of water and bather can crack the new caulk.

It’s best to work at a careful, steady pace to get the caulk applied during a single repair. It can try your patience to match up your tracks and at the same time lay down a seamless, protective sealant.  Caulk, like other adhesives, cures as it sets.

If you’re caulking cracks in your exterior concrete, be sure to buy siliconized latex concrete caulk. Again, your success depends on how well you clean the cracks of debris and old patching compounds or sealants.

Your thermostat, when working properly, runs on a transformer to set and adjust the amount of heat your furnace delivers to your home. Imagine how you might feel one cold winter morning when you adjust your thermostat and nothing happens! Brrr! There are simple ways to troubleshoot your problem, but ultimately you may have more on your hands than you can handle. Let’s look at some simple causes.

Your thermostat unit may have a short, a circuit may have blown or tripped a breaker, or a dusty thermostat unit may be blocked from reading the proper settings. At the heart of the thermostat is the bimetallic coil, a wound strip of metal that expands or contracts under the influence of temperatures. Wouldn’t you be lucky if all you needed to do to get the thermostat working again was to dust off the coil?

You need to eliminate some of the suspects, one-by-one, flipping back the breakers, replacing fuses, or checking your electrical connections.

Beware the Fouled Heat Anticipator

If you open your thermostat, you’ll most likely find a disc connected by a thin wire to the bimetallic coil. When the heat anticipator is adjusted properly, it heats the coil to room temperature so that your furnace won’t keep bursting on and off with minute changes in heat or cold. If it operates too often, it can harm your thermostat or heating unit.

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Make sure that the thermostat box has been mounted on the level. A crooked unit can affect the workings of the coil and heat anticipator.

In most units, the anticipator is connected over a scale printed on the circular disc. By moving the tab to and fro over the temperature settings, you just might free a stuck heat anticipator.

The disc on the anticipator usually has the word “longer” etched or printed on it. For a unit that turns on and off too frequently or fails to reach the temperature set on the thermostat, you should adjust the anticipator arm toward the word “longer” and give it a few hours to see if it solves your dilemma. By using the correct anticipator setting, you conserve energy, by using pre-heated air already in the furnace system to fill your home before additional heat is generated.

If that doesn’t work, you may have to call in an HVAC contractor to snoop out the cause.

There’s a wrench to fit every home-improvement nut. It’s an old joke, but true enough. Tools, sadly, are pricey if you’re after quality. Most contractors I know build up their tool collection over a period of years. They pack their trucks with the essential items, and carry indispensable tools in their belt.  As the adage goes, you need the tool the matches the job.

If you’re just putting together your tool set, look for used tools online or sales at home improvement stores. The exact tools you need vary by the jobs you intend to perform on your own. If you get in over your head, you can do more damage than it costs to call in a professional.

Essential Tools for Home Repair or Renovation

Experts at Popular Mechanics say a sledgehammer is the most-important tool, followed by a center punch, putty knife, adjustable wrench, socket wrench set, metal file, combination square, and combination wrench. I think you might survive without the sledgehammer if you’re doing home repair work on your own.

You can find this initial group of tools reasonably priced and put them together in short order. The power tools, of course, cost more and require stands, power cords and supply, and workshop space. Some of us are lucky enough to inherit tools from our parents or relatives, or have them around for myriad quick fixes around the house.

The second tier of tools, says Popular Mechanics, consists of a bow saw, jigsaw, coping saw, side-cutting pliers, crosscut saw, snips, roundhouse shovel, needle-nose pliers, and a cordless drill. The trio of indispensable tools for plumbing repairs include a pipe wrench, pliers of all sizes and adjustable models, and an adjustable and crescent wrench.

Squaring Away Your Repair Tools

Organizing your repair tools so they are there when you need them can be a project unto itself.  If you plan on doing work off property, you might want a toolbox for your truck.  In the garage, you can thrive with a well organized peg boards and hooks, shelves, and storage cabinets. Put each family of tools together in their own shelf, slot, or see-through plastic container.

While you’re building up your toolbox, consider whether you have duplicates and which tools are in need of oiling, repair, or replacements.  Relying on someone else for your tools can be tricky. Many home carpenters and fix-it enthusiasts are protective of their tools.

During repairs, you may want to strap on a tool belt with the leather pouches arranged intuitively with nails, hammer, screwdrivers, bolts, tape, and measuring tape in easy reach.

Whether it’s a toilet that runs constantly or one that bursts into action after intervals of silence, it’s enough to drive you crazy. It’s bad enough that more than a third of your total water usage goes down the toilet.  Raising the tank level with a brick or water-saving device can spare you gallons, but not if your toilet operates around the clock without flushing.  If it’s not the whoosh that’s crazy-making, it’s the hiss of water refilling the tank.

Simple maintenance or trouble-shooting can put your misery to rest, so why are you living with the noise? Most of the time, it’s a misaligned ball or flapper, a sticky or leaky flush valve, or a bent lift arm that causes all your woes. First, diagnose the cause by eliminating the parts one-by-one, then perform some uncomplicated adjustments or replace the culprits. It’s that simple.

Tracking the Root Causes of Toilet Noise
The best place to begin is with the flapper (or flush valve) that seats on the bottom of the tank. Hold it down with a broom handle or ruler. If you still hear water leaking, then it’s time to replace the flapper. Next, lift the float lift arm as your tank fills and if it continues to run after the level reaches the overflow pipe, you’ve found the cause. Bend the arm upwards and see if that handles it. No? Replace it.

If you have to replace the toilet flapper turn off the water supply via the metal handle behind the unit. The flapper is attached by a hook and chain to the lift arm. When you have the new flapper installed,  be sure to take up the slack on the chain so the lift is taut.

While you’re at it, check the valve seat beneath the flapper. Minerals from hard water can keep the toilet flapper from sealing. Use a sediment cleaner on a wire brush or scouring pad to remedy the problem. A telltale sign of excessive minerals can be a discolored flapper.

Last, if you hear intermittent hissing and refilling, you may have a leaking flush valve.  Experts at Corner Hardware suggest that you add food coloring into your tank water. If the color ends up in your toilet bowl after 20 minutes, the seal to the flush valve may need repairs with a glue-on seat to help the flapper do its job.

Using the illustration: The flapper is the dark blue element that can also be called the flush valve. The float arm is at the top of the illustration, connecting the float  ball to the inlet valve.