Not since Edison’s 1879 incandescent electric lamp hit the market has there been such a hubbub about lighting. One can only wonder if the American population was concerned about the quality of light produced by the filament bulb when compared with the illumination from gas lamps. They probably loved the convenience.

Now, forced by Federal legislation to save energy, American consumers may again face a quantum change in the way their homes and offices are lighted. Beginning in 2012, all new light bulbs will be required under law to use 30 percent less energy to produce the same levels of light that we enjoy today. The winners of the shift, according to The New York Times, will probably be the manufacturers of compact fluorescent bulbs. The losers: the aesthetically conscious consumer.

Compact fluorescent bulbs on today’s market are designed for use in kitchens, baths, and all the rooms between. They’re said to operate on 70 percent less energy than the traditional bulb, and last as much as ten times longer under normal use. But so far, manufacturers are well beyond the curve in offering lighting fixtures designed to cast the fluorescent bulbs in the most-favorable light.

Consumers Reluctant to Change
Wal-Mart has sold compact fluorescent bulbs for three years and the new items make up less than 20 percent of their bulb sales. Consumers dislike the overall color effects of the bulbs and complain that some models give off a disturbing buzzing sound when in use.

On the other side of the aesthetic argument is the government’s claim that 90 percent of the energy burned by incandescent bulbs is emitted as heat—not light.  The energy drain has led Australian legislators to ban incandescent bulbs by next year.

In America, the Department of Energy supports the end of the incandescent era, claiming that 25 percent of our total home energy bill is generated by lighting.  Compact fluorescent bulbs, reports the California Energy Commission, should not only reduce energy use by 75 percent, but should last 10,000 hours.

To consumers concerned about the quality of light produced by compact fluorescent bulbs, the Federal ENERGYSTAR team claims that newer models of compact fluorescents will come with “warm” colors to match the yellow tint of incandescent bulbs. The new bulbs will be offered along three settings in the Kelvin scale: yellow, white, and blue.

In the end, we may have to settle for some discomfort until manufacturers dial in the colors. But we’ll probably be stuck with fluorescent bulbs.

I can’t think of anything worse in the morning than having to take a cold shower. But having a rotten egg smell in your shower water from a decayed anode comes in a close second.  If you’re looking to replace a water heater or choose one for a new residence, you have a world of options.  Let’s look over a few.

The most conventionally used type is a storage water heater.  These units have up to an 80-gallon capacity (if you can afford to heat it) and are fired by natural gas, propane, electricity, and fuel oil.  Other choices include a heat-pump water heater, where the water is heated on-demand, but the heater has a limited rate of flow.

There are also solar powered water heaters, tankless coil heaters that power off your home’s heating system, and electric-powered on-demand water heaters, a common choice around the globe.

Evaluating Your Water Heating Needs
The U.S. Department of Energy has established some simple guidelines to help you choose the right water heater for your needs. You’ll want to evaluate the fuel source options to power the heater, the capacity you’ll need for your family, and the operating costs (along with energy efficiency).

In addition to electricity, fuel oil, natural gas, and propane, homeowners with geothermal heating systems can tap into that unique resource with a pump system.

When shopping for your system, evaluate the Energy Guide label on the appliance that stipulates the annual operating costs and energy efficiency. Size alone is not necessarily your best guideline.

If you have a large family with constant hot water use in showers and appliances, you’ll want a heater with a rapid recovery rate. Beware of your cost to heat water all day. Remember, you want to consider BTU input and first-hour recovery rates. The higher the BTU rate and smaller the tank, the shorter the time to a tankful of fresh hot water.

If you have only three members in your family, you may be comfortable with a 40 gallon capacity tank.

Water Heater Accessories
You should consider water heater accessories that can help with efficiency and home protection from leaks. These include alarms, pressure regulators, heater stands, tank capacity extenders, insulating blankets, overflow pans, and system timers.

Insulating blankets are a great idea if your heater is in a cold basement or garage and you live in a cold climate.

Finally, let’s look at that rotten egg smell.  It’s caused by bacteria that forms in the water after water heater anodes reach the end of their service life.  When that happens, you need to change out the anodes with zinc-alloy replacements, treat your water, or replace the entire water heater.

In improperly installed or poorly maintained ceiling fan may become more ornamental than useful.  You may have selected your kitchen, bedroom, or living room fan based on appearance, choosing it for blade design or lighting options. But unless you’re just going to turn it on when company comes, you should make sure that your fan is not costing you more to operate than the potential energy savings it can bring to your home.

Let’s say you’ve included quotes for having a fan installed when renovating a bathroom. According to Home Energy Magazine,  a standard ceiling fan with a light fixture uses about 300 kwh/year to operate, while a certified Energy Star model fan uses less than half of that amount without compromising light and airflow capabilities. Makes sense to help distribute your HVAC load with an appliance that also runs efficiently.

Do You Need Lighting in the Ceiling Fan?
If your main reason is to curb heating or air conditioning costs, you may not need to buy a ceiling fan with a central light. It’s the light itself that draws the most power during operation and it generates heat.  Halogen and  incandescent bulbs typically use the greatest amount of energy.

The government’s Energy Star website provides downloads of tools to help you select the most energy-efficient fan based on the size of your kitchen or bathroom, on your regional heating and cooling requirements, along with installation tips. The agency also has suggestions in choosing the correct fan mounting system for your room: standard, extended, sloped, or flush mounts.

Fan Adjustments: Working Out the Wobble
There’s nothing glamorous about a wobbly fan. The noise or visual flutter in the spin can drive you to distraction. Worse, a wobbly fan can have a shorter effective life as well as use additional energy to run without providing circulation.

If you’re installing the fan in your bathroom or kitchen–or having someone do it for you–be sure the unit is fastened securely to a mounting box in the ceiling. This is a pivotal part of the procedure.  Most manufacturers balance the fan blades before shipping, but there’s no guarantee your unit will come that way.

A good method of diagnosing the fan is to run it without the blades installed to see if it still wobbles. If it runs smooth, you’ll need to balance the blades. Be sure to  ensure that all the set screws and mounting screws are tight. Then measure the distance from the top of each blade to the ceiling. Adjust each blade as necessary until all of them are true and even.

It’s time to revisit the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 and its energy improvements section.  In sum, Section 1121 of the act was created to offer a $1,500 tax credit for materials applied towards an energy retrofit of windows, skylights, doors, insulation and roofing.

Homeowners can earn the credit up to a 30 percent ceiling on materials. However, if you’re working with heating and air conditioning, you could receive a credit up to 30 percent of the cost and installation for a solar- powered water heater or biomass stove.  Another provision of the legislation creates a no-repay $8,000 tax credit to a first-time homeowner.

Tax Rules and a Quick Warning
The provisions of the stimulus  tripled the size of credits for upgrading your home. But you must meet Federal requirements to successfully file for the credit or return. All new HVAC systems or new windows, skylights, doors, etc., have to be installed between  January 1, 2009, and December 31, 2010.

If you’re planning on taking the credit, you must buy products that meet Federal energy efficiency requirements. Even a product identified on its label as an Energy Star certified item may not meet the regulations. New compliance levels have been set based on National Fenestration Council (NFRC) ratings for  U-Factor and Solar Heat-Gain-Coefficient values.

There are varieties of insulation products that meet lifespan and warranty requirements that you can add to your materials checklist. And roofing materials that meet Energy Star requirements may also qualify.

Insist on Paper
For each purchase you want to apply to your tax return, you’ll need the receipt, the product tag verifying its energy-efficiency ratings (Manufacturer’s Certification Statement), and a separate form provided by the retailer indicating the sale of an qualifying item.

Don’t confuse your contractor with your tax attorney. Look carefully at advertising from contractors who claim that they’ll match your $1,500 tax credit.  That’s assuming that you can qualify for one.  Remember, only certain energy-efficient renovations qualify for tax credits and include labor costs. Review the list at the Energy Star website.

Also, don’t take a contractor’s word that the materials meet the provisions unless you see the actual manufacturer’s certification tag. Any contract or work-order you arrange with your installer should itemize materials costs in a separate breakout from labor. You’ll need to save all the documentation you can for your records.

It’s worth a note that the law also set aside $5 billion in funds for weatherization assistance to qualified low-income households.

I don’t always believe claims on returns on investment for home improvements. The fluctuating costs for materials and labor—let alone the continual development of better products—makes it all a moving target. But I’m thoroughly convinced that replacing your windows with energy efficient substitutes can make a difference in utility bills and curb appeal.

Recently, I heard about tax credits for installing new energy-efficient windows, skylights, and doors as part of the stimulus plan. With contractors scrambling to make up for fewer customers in the current economy and the $1,500 tax credit for new windows, it could be the perfect time to upgrade your windows. You can read about the credit at the Efficient Windows website.

Do An Energy Audit

The Federal Government has a useful online tool for comparing your year’s-worth of energy bills with similar homes around the country based on zip code, square footage, and family size. You’ll just need a 12-month summary of bills from your utility company (if you haven’t saved a year’s worth of statements) to get started.

Once you have a baseline on how your home is performing, you can make an informed decision on replacement doors and windows. A great way to learn about energy savers for your home improvement projects is through The National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC). Fenestrations are any openings (windows, skylights, and doors) to the outdoor elements in your home.

When you shop for replacement windows, you’ll find an NFRC label affixed to the product. Ratings measure Condensation Resistance, U-factors, Solar Heat Gain, and Daylighting capacities of each product. In fact, to receive the tax credit for your replacement project, you’ll need to buy doors or windows that comply with NFRC ratings and a signed statement from your supplier.

Understanding NFRC Values

The major performance ratings listed on window, skylights, and doors measure R-value, the product’s resistance to heat flow, and U-value, the product’s heat conduction properties. Manufacturers are evaluated by their compliance with federal energy-savings guidelines for

Air leakage

U-factor

Visible transmittance (VT)

R-values

Sunlight Transmittance

Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC)

Light-to-solar gain (LSG)

For a complete explanation of the measurements and guidelines, visit the government’s Energy Savers website.

It’s certainly worth an hour of your time to evaluate your current energy use, the kinds of replacement door and window products out there in the market, and whether saving up to a third of your purchase price in tax credits.