Posted by woodrow ~ March 7th, 2010
One great way to get a start on spring cleaning is to create more room to get around in your garage. I find that the clutter in my life spills into an overflow cabinet in the garage. After a while, you can’t get at your tools, bicycles, and–in my case–the washer and dryer.

The Times Union
I found two great articles on de-cluttering the garage in my Web journeys this week. Putting in suspended shelving is a terrific idea, and the steps are spelled out simply at Reader’s Digest. If you have a foot and a half of clearance along the wall atop the garage door, you can build a suspended shelf strong enough to hold foot-tall plastic storage bins.
The key is to anchor the shelf along a series of three joists to distribute the weight. Then, if your bikes are too heavy for the standard hook-in the-wall solution, Reader’s Digest suggests adding a $30 Hoist Monster (ProStar) and yanking your two-wheeled rides on a pulley. Cool idea.
Half-day De-Clutter Renovation
The Do It Yourself Network has a $200-$500 project that takes less than a day to install a wire-grid wall storage system between a pair of joists. I like the idea of ventilated shelving in the garage.
For the project, you install rails with screws and anchors, add uprights and brackets, then snap in the shelves and cover the tips of the wire with end caps. Any sensible way to get stuff off the floor and open out garage space is a winner.
Opening up the space and working along the walls gives you ample opportunity to examine your structure in fresh light. If you have trouble with dry rot, here’s a simple way to handle repairs. And while you’re clearing clutter, here’s a solution for the bathroom.
Tags: cleaning, clutter, garage, home improvement projects
Posted in General Remodeling, Remodeling | 1 Comment »
Posted by woodrow ~ March 5th, 2010
Considering home improvement plans? One of the trickier jobs in hanging new drywall on a renovated room or expansion is coping with severely bent or bowed studs. The gap between the drywall and the stud can create curves, or worse, cracks and warps in the wall.
If it’s a slight bulge, you might get away with creating a smooth surface. But if it’s a severe warp or curve, you want to attend to it right from the start. If the stud shows a concave section in your inspection, it’s important to determine if the stud is in a load-bearing wall. It’s easier to cut a non-bearing wall stud slightly at the bow in a triangular slice right at the center of the bowed place. Put a shim tightly into the cut, straighten it, and remove the excess with a razor knife. Firm up the stud with a cut 2×4 “sister,” screwed tightly into place to give you a flat surface for the drywall.
But if it’s a load-bearing wall, it might be more prudent to replace the stud.

Popular Mechanics
More About Stud Finders
If you’ve been doing handiwork for a while, you might be surprised at how technology has evolved in stud finders. Popular Mechanics celebrated the emergence of stud sensors, scanners, and tracers a few years ago. You can find self-marking sensors, wood-framing tracers, conduit and re-bar-trackers.
There are level and finder combos that set lines and handle much of the work you had to do with a straight-edge, plumb-line, and pencil. Cool stuff. By the way, do you know the right questions to ask your home inspector?
Tags: drywall, finders, improvements, studs, walls
Posted in General Remodeling, Remodeling | 1 Comment »
Posted by woodrow ~ March 1st, 2010
I know that electric wall ovens have a larger capacity than their gas counterparts, but when it comes to cooktops, give me gas power every time. The immediate response to changes in heat makes for great control over frying, simmering, and poaching great entrees and side dishes. Sure, electric-powered ranges boil water a little quicker. But I’m willing to sacrifice that for the complete mastery gas cooktops give me over the balance of my cooking chores.

Home Depot
Having separate ovens and cooktop appliances means extra work on the installation end, and it can be well worth it if you like the conveniences and benefits of each. One of the easiest ways to comparison shop for cooktops is online. You can find great sales and discounts on the Web, too. Before you start, set a budget, measure the area for the cooktop, determine the power source you want, evaluate venting needs, select the kind of burners you want, the surface materials, and especially the manufacturer’s warranties.
Gas Versus Electric Kitchen Cooktops
Sears tends to favor gas-powered cooktops for serious cooks. Basic cooktop models come in 30″ and 36″ models, and you can spare yourself time and effort if you replace the same size appliance during your remodeling. Both gas and electric models start around $300 in the most economical varieties, going upwards to $600 for better models. If you like induction, be prepared to spend as much as $2,500.
Consumer Reports estimates that you can spend between $200 and $1,500 for a good gas cooktop, and between $150 and $1,000 for electrics. Most experts suggest evaluating your cooktop choices based on cleanup and safety. All cooktops stay hot for a while after you turn them off, but you can buy models that display a red warning button to show you the heat is still present in the element.
While you’re at it, look over the latest kitchen design trends. Need to add a new kitchen sink? We have suggestions.
Tags: appliances, cooktop, electric, gas, kitchen, shopping
Posted in General Remodeling, Kitchens, Remodeling | 3 Comments »
Posted by woodrow ~ February 26th, 2010
Here in the winter California rains and winds, it’s a challenge to walk safely across the patio at night at my friend’s house. There’s a series of overhead floods that splash light across the patio, and if you turn on the pool lights, chances are good you won’t take a tumble into the depths. But I know my pals can do better, protect their investment, and get some decent, attractive lighting out here without breaking the budget.
There are so many options, and many lighting fixtures and sets come in low-wattage models that won’t dramatically affect the power bill. Plus, some come with dimmers and timers, so you can shut them down or lower the lighting when the yard is not in use. It seems silly and dangerous to do without it.

Hadco
Choosing Among the Lighting Types
If you don’t have general floodlights, at least start there. Then choose from path lights, lanterns, light strings, deck lanterns and lights, and rope lights. Each has its own unique aesthetic quality and function. Path lights cast downward illumination, letting you see where you’re going and if there are obstructions.
Lanterns do the same, but also allow for wider illumination of decking and potential hazards. Deck lighting can be attached to posts or trellises to cast the right slant on things. I really like so-called “brick lights” that fit into your hardscape or wall work and look just like pavers, shooting soft light upwards from the ground.
My Home Ideas has an article on choosing a ten-light set string of patio lights with a programmable transformer. I also like the distinctions of outdoor lights featured by Landscape Lighting to accent a wooden deck or patio, extend from the lawn, or spotlight your garden features.
Hadco also has a wide variety of examples for low-voltage path lighting that runs from simple to wildly decorative. I laughed aloud at the copper mushroom path light with convincing green stem (pictured above). And I know full well that there’s no way on heaven and earth that it will turn up in my friend’s backyard.
While we’re on the subject, don’t forget buying and installing pathway lights to lead to a patio enclosure or hot tub platform. And if you end up creating a space that attracts your friends even in the winter months, consider buying some outdoor patio heaters for an overall toasty experience.
Tags: deck, garden, Lighting, outdoor, patio, pool
Posted in General Remodeling, Landscaping, Remodeling | 1 Comment »
Posted by woodrow ~ February 22nd, 2010
I love the look of brick or tile on the patio. There are some real artisans out there who create patterns that draw you into the backyard; move you gracefully around hardscaping and trellises, cook-tops and dining sets, fountains and statuary; or across a lawn to an outdoor shower. You need a designer’s eye to create the right pattern, and the ability to create a gradient to help your pavers drain correctly.
Whether you work in meters or feet, the idea is to measure the length and width of the total area for your paver design and multiply them together to determine the total area in materials you need for the job. Throw in another five to ten percent of materials to ensure you have enough pavers given cutting, edging, or mis-cuts. They happen.

Belgard
Use Restraint with Your Pavers
Layer pavers on sand bedding that slopes away from the house for adequate draining. A clay sub-base works really well, depending on drainage. You can mark off the perimeter of the path and reach of the pavers with string, wrapped firmly around stakes. Crushed limestone makes a good base, with the stone prepared with sharp edges and angles so it can be easily compacted. Be sure to lay out the pavers with an edge of restraints made of steel, aluminum, pre-cast concrete, or plastic.
Fine-grained sand works exceptionally well to fill joints and prep for sealing. Sand-binding sealers can prevent staining and molds. And it sets you up for pain-free maintenance and cleaning. According to Minerals Zone, you can also use PVC or treated wood to create a restraint line along the length of the pavers. The variables in the preparation and execution of the base and compaction make all the difference in the life span of your paving stones.

Belgard
Great Landscaping Ideas suggests using flagstones or slabs in lieu of pavers. You can create your own slabs out of colored gravel to build your own design. You can set the slabs in mortar and grout with dry mortar mix. Or use topsoil and moss as a filler.
Interlocking pavers in cement or concrete are relatively easy to install and constrain movement of the stones without the use of mortar. You can buy them in sets with textures, colors, and geometric designs that work best for your landscaping. You still need to create a sub-grade, compacting base, and leveling bed.
Tags: hardscape, landscape, patio, pavers, walkways, yard
Posted in General Remodeling, Home Maintenance, Landscaping, Remodeling | 4 Comments »