You're starting the last row of tile when installing a new kitchen floor only to discover that all the ceramic boxes are empty. What happened? Few things can be as frustrating as running out of material while doing a home remodeling project, especially when you were so careful about calculating how much was needed for the job. More times than not the problem is simple: you forgot to figure the waste that is a part of almost every home improvement project.

Remodeling waste: How much to figure for your project?

Whether you're a seasoned DIYer or just strapping on a tool belt for the first time, there's a pretty good chance there's going to be some waste during your home improvement jobs. After all, even professional contractors figure in a little extra when estimating their phase of work.

At best, coming up short can mean having to stop work for an unplanned trip to the local building supply outlet. However, when working with materials such as ceramic tile or brick that are manufactured by "lot," running out can mean having trouble matching the color shade of the initial batch.

So how do you know how much waste to figure for a particular type of remodeling project? One of the best sources for estimating information is the staff where you're purchasing the materials. Many building supply companies hire former contractors who have years of experience or at the very least, are knowledgeable about estimating various types of materials. Here's a few waste factors for remodeling materials that may be helpful when planning your job:

• Hardwood flooring -- Hardwood Floors, the magazine of the National Wood Floors Association, suggests figuring a minimum of 5 percent over the square footage of the room for premium grade flooring. You may need to go as high as 10 percent for lesser grades.
• Ceramic tile flooring -- Figure how many tiles you need for the actual square footage of the room and then add 10 percent. If the room has a lot of angles or the tile is being laid on a diagonal, increase the waste factor to 15 percent.
• Vinyl siding -- A good rule of thumb for figuring vinyl siding waste is to allow enough material to cover all the windows and doors in the exterior walls.
• Wall framing studs -- Many professional construction estimators figure a 2-by-4 every 12 inches of wall length to allow for lumber waste.

These average waste factors are based on you having a few DIY projects on your resume. If you're just starting out, it may be a good idea to add a little extra.

Is this the year that your living and dining rooms finally become one large area? According to some experts, an emerging trend in home design is wide open interior spaces -- especially if you're single or a couple with a newly empty nest. That means many interior partitions could soon end up in local landfills. But prior to swinging that sledge hammer, it might be a good idea to determine if you're about to remove a load-bearing wall.

What exactly is a load-bearing wall?

While the walls in your home might seem to just serve as separations to create rooms or hallways, some have an additional function: to carry a structural load. A house's exterior walls almost always support the roof framing or trusses and depending on the floor joist layout, a portion of that weight as well.

In addition, some interior partitions may help provide support for structural components with long spans. An example of this would be when a floor joist can't reach from the front to the back of the home without interior bearing points to prevent deflection.

The good news is that many load-bearing walls can be altered or even removed. However, in almost every situation a substitute means of support such as a header or beam must be installed. Their sizing is determined by the distance spanned and weight being carried.

While the only sure way for a DIYer to determine whether a wall is load-bearing is to look at the home's blueprints or consult with an architect, here are a few telltale clues:

• Exterior walls -- A home's exterior walls are almost always weight-bearing.
• Headers -- If you remove sheetrock from an interior wall and there are headers over the door openings, there's a pretty good chance the wall was designed to carry a load. Headers are normally framing lumber that is 6 to 12 inches wide and 2 inches thick. The lumber is doubled across the top of the opening.
• Stacked walls -- When walls are constructed in the same locations on different floor levels, they are normally carrying a roof or floor load down to foundation walls or concrete piers.
• Stairways -- An interior partition that parallels a stairway may support the floor joists that have been shortened to create the opening. The exception is when the floor joists also parallel the stairway.

Load-bearing walls always have double top plates, but many partitions that don't carry any weight do as well so that isn't a reliable indicator.

Always determine if a wall is designed to carry weight before doing any demo. You may not notice any immediate changes to your home when a structural wall is removed, but over time the damage often becomes very apparent. And while removing the wall may be DIY-friendly, the sizing of the new support header or beam should always be done by an architect or engineer.

So you've decided to enter the exciting world of tackling your own home improvement jobs … what's the first thing on your "to do" list? If you're like many beginning DIYers, it's probably figuring out what new tools are needed for your first projects.

You may already have your eye on a particular drill or circular saw that should make the jobs a little easier. Or perhaps you're going to take the leap and spring for big ticket item such as a compound miter saw. They can make just about any DIYer feel like a professional contractor.

But before you get carried away, there's a tool that should be at the top of any DIYer's wish list. They're an important part of every remodeling contractor's tool collection and are so versatile that they can be a big help on almost any type of project. The next time you're at your favorite home improvement store, ask a salesperson on which aisle their sawhorses can be found.

What you need to know about sawhorses

While they're available in numerous styles and configurations, all sawhorses are basically platforms that allow you to work more efficiently and safely. The best models are tough enough to support just about any type of material, but also lightweight and easy to carry.

Many manufacturers design the tops of their sawhorses with predrilled holes so a piece of framing lumber can be easily attached with bolts. The lumber serves two purposes: it permits tacking material to the top of the sawhorse so it's held secure during an intricate cut and the wood prevents damage to the sawhorse or saw blade if the cut is too deep.

Contractors and DIYers used to build their sawhorses from wood and while sturdy, the devices were also fairly heavy and took up a lot of room when not in use. Tool manufacturers had the answer: sawhorses constructed from lightweight plastics and metals that were tough enough for just about any job, but could be folded up when the project was complete. Here are a few to consider for your DIY tool collection:

• DeWalt -- The DeWalt DWST11031 weighs less than 11 pounds but a pair can support up to 2,500 pounds. The legs can be adjusted for uneven surfaces.
• Stanley -- The Stanley 060582R folding sawhorses are budget-friendly and can be purchased in pairs. Each set has a weight capacity of up to 1,000 pounds.
• Crawford -- This company's SH38A sawhorses have adjustable legs and feature all-steel construction. They're only 19 pounds each, but a pair will support up to 1,200 pounds.
• Rockwell -- If you want a little more than a basic sawhorse, Rockwell's JawHorse should fit the bill. Each unit features an adjustable clamp that holds your material in place while working. The JawHorse is constructed from steel, has legs that can be adjusted for uneven surfaces, and is easily folded up when not being used.

Drills and saws may get the accolades, but just about any home improvement project is easier if sawhorses are a part of your remodeling tool collection.

What do finishing a basement, adding onto your home, and repairing a plumbing leak have in common? If you're a DIYer, there's a pretty good chance you'll be working with sheetrock on each of these projects.

So what do you need to know about this material that's such a big part of most remodeling jobs? Well for one thing … while you'll probably never be as proficient as a professional contractor, once you know a few basics, sheetrock is fairly DIY-friendly.

Getting started with sheetrock

Installing and finishing sheetrock are tasks that become easier with practice, but every DIYer has a first time. Here are a few basics that should help you get started:

• Thickness -- While most sheetrock in homes is ½-inch thick, don't assume that it's all going to be that way. Partitions that are considered to be fire separation walls are normally drywalled with 5/8-inch boards. If you live in an attached town home, there's a pretty good chance the side walls will have the thicker board. The same is true with the material used in many garages. The 5/8-inch board often has a fire rating.
• High moisture areas -- Moisture resistant sheetrock known as "green board" was often used for tub and shower surrounds, but is no longer considered the best choice. If you're remodeling or adding a bathroom, WonderBoard, Durock or Aqua-Tough panels are better at resisting water damage.
• Support -- Even small pieces of drywall used for repairs need proper support if you want the patch to last. At least two sides should rest over framing and if possible, install blocking so that all four sides have adequate support. When doing a repair, you may need to trim back the existing sheetrock to expose about half of the face of the adjacent wood wall studs or ceiling joists.
• Fastening -- Drywall manufacturers normally provide specific fastening requirements for installing their materials on their websites. The specifications are based on the material thickness and the type of framing where it will be applied. While these recommendations are for full sized sheets, they can also be used for smaller repairs. When drywalling an entire room, keep in mind that local building code often dictates how the board should be fastened.
• Sizes -- Sheetrock is normally 4 feet wide, but can be 8-, 9-, 10- or 12-feet long. If you're working by yourself, buying 8-foot boards is almost always a good idea. A 4-by-8 foot piece of ½-inch sheetrock weighs about 50 pounds. While that might not seem like much, it can feel much heavier when attempting to fasten it to a ceiling.

Another tip that may make your sheetrock project a little easier: many distributors can deliver board on a boom truck. If you have a window that can be removed or an exterior door near your project, the drywall can be placed right inside your home.

Is this a good year to tackle a remodeling project? Actually any year is a good time if you're making some changes to better fit your family's lifestyle. However, if increasing your home's value is also a goal, 2013 might be the year you've been waiting for: Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value Report for 2013 is out, and the numbers are looking pretty good.

Remodeling returns are headed upward

Remodeling Magazine's annual Cost vs. Value report has long been recognized as one of the best resources for how much homeowners might expect to recoup from home improvement projects. The data is compiled by region and from larger metropolitan areas so that trends across the entire country can be identified. The estimated cost of construction of various remodeling projects is compared to how much they can be expected to increase a home's price when it's sold.

The percentage of return has increased across the board for the first time in six years due to dropping construction costs and home values stabilizing -- even rising in many markets. A recent article in Barron's Magazine concurs on the upward trend in housing values: several experts predict they could increase as much as 5 to 10 percent nationally over the next several years.

Construction costs might be another matter -- the current low levels could be temporary. An article on Bloomberg.com describes how a rebounding housing industry might cause a lumber shortage that could result in higher prices. Framing lumber and trim can be a big part of the material costs of many home improvement projects.

For now, however, the planets appear to be aligned, and 2013 might be a good year to finish your basement or add a bedroom in the attic. Here are a few remodeling projects that the Cost vs. Value Report estimates should provide a good return on your investment:

• Adding an attic bedroom - 72.9%
• Minor kitchen remodels - 75.4%
• Basement remodels - 70.3%
• Bathroom remodels - 65.2%
• Installing new wood windows - 73.3%
• Putting new vinyl siding on your home - 72.9%
• Installing a new garage door - 75.7%
• Replacing your old siding with fiber cement - 79.3%
• Installing insulated vinyl siding - 71.8%

The percentages are based on a national average and could be higher or lower in your region. For example, if your home is located in the Pacific region, you might be able to recoup as much as 89% of the cost of adding an attic bedroom, and a basement remodel could return 87.8 percent. Regardless of where you live, 2013 might be the ideal time for a home improvement project.

What exactly is egress? Should it be a concern when planning your home improvement project?

When discussing residential or commercial construction, egress is defined as a means to exit or escape a room or confined space. The exit signs prominently displayed in movie theaters, restaurants, or just about any building where people assemble are there to meet egress-related building codes. They serve as a guide in the event the building needs to be quickly evacuated. While avenues of exit are very critical in structures where crowds gather, they're just as important in your home -- after all, it's where your family lives.

Home remodeling: Where egress may be an issue

Home improvement jobs that just involve cosmetic changes such as painting or floor coverings rarely affect egress. However, here are two projects where you might want to consult your local building codes:

1. Window replacements

You might think that if your old windows meet exit requirements, putting new units in the same openings should pass code as well. While this is true in many cases, there are times when there could be a problem. If the existing opening size is just over the code minimum, the way a new window is constructed might cause it to fail.

International Residential Code specifies that all bedroom windows need to have a clear opening that is at least 20 inches wide, 24 inches tall, and a total unobstructed area of at least 5.7 square feet. If the bedroom is on a ground floor, an opening of at least 5.0 square feet will suffice. The frame of your new window could encroach into the space needed to meet code specifications. When replacing bedroom windows, always check to ensure the new units meet the minimum requirements for escaping the rooms.

2. Basement finishing

If you're thinking of adding a bedroom when finishing your basement, providing a means of egress in the event of a fire is a necessity. According to the IRC Code, all basement bedrooms must have a window or door that allows an occupant to exit directly to the exterior of the home. The means of exit must meet the same minimum requirements of bedroom windows on upper floors.

Creating a bedroom in a fully in-ground basement can be a challenge, but may be possible by utilizing a bulkhead exit from the sleeping area. If you have a partially buried foundation, adding a sleeping area when basement finishing is often a little easier. Locating the bedrooms against an exposed foundation wall often provides enough space for an egress window or door to be installed.

Many contractors and homeowners get around the basement bedroom egress requirement by calling the lower level room a den or study. However, most building inspectors have wised up to this method of skirting the code -- if the room has a closet, they're probably going to classify it as a bedroom. Egress requirements should be a priority when planning these types of home improvement projects.

It's a new year and you might already be abandoning some of your resolutions. Getting more exercise or deciding to become serious about losing weight are admirable goals but not always easy to stick to. As a DIYer, why not make one that you have a better chance of keeping? There are many new materials and tools hitting the marketplace that provide more options for your home improvement projects. Resolve to try a few of these innovative remodeling products in 2013.

Lightweight sheetrock

Spending a day carrying and hanging sheetrock can be a good way to keep that resolution about getting more exercise -- especially if there are ceilings involved. USG Corporation has provided help by introducing a lightweight sheetrock that's about 30 percent lighter than standard boards. That may not sound like much, but at the end of the day your aching muscles should be able to feel the difference. The material is available at many home improvement stores and can be used in place of standard 1/2-inch board.

DeWalt DCT416S1 12V Max Imaging thermometer kit

You've probably heard that getting an energy audit on your home can be a good way to lower heating and cooling bills, but may not be sure how to have it done. DeWalt has made checking for trouble spots in your insulation a DIY project with their DCT416S1 Imaging Thermometer Kit. The tool detects temperature deviations in your exterior walls and attic that are often indications of where energy dollars are escaping your home. The DCT416S1 retails for around $1,000, but could pay for itself in reduced heating and cooling costs in just a few years.

Silca System deck underlayment

If you've always envied your neighbor's slate patio but have been stuck with a deck due to backyard grade, you're now in luck. Silca System structural support panels allow you to convert your deck's wooden surface to slate, pavers, or even stone. The panels attach to the joists in the deck and can be used on stair treads as well. The product is very DIY-friendly and is made with recycled materials.

GAF Monaco Lifetime Designer Shingles

Roofing tile can give just about any home a distinctive and elegant appearance. Unfortunately, tile isn't right for every climate and budget, and the material's weight can sometimes be an issue as well. You can now have the look without the drawbacks by using GAF's Monaco Lifetime Designer shingles on your home.

The roofing has a profile that's very similar to tile and features a limited lifetime warranty. Available colors are based on where your home is located, but in just about every region several hues are offered. The roofing also has a limited wind warranty up to 130 mph.

These are just a few of the innovative remodeling products now offered that can make 2013 the best year yet for home improvement DIYers.

You've probably heard it a hundred times: always have a written contract when you hire a contractor to work on your home. But what if the company doesn't provide one -- is there a place where the documents are available? What should be in a home remodeling contract, and how should the price of the job be specified?

If your contractor doesn't use an official contract, checking their references might be in order if you haven't already done so. Just about any reputable home remodeling company should have legal documents if for no other reason than their own protection.

However, if for some reason they don't, the American Institute of Architects website is a good source of contracts for just about any type of project. The documents aren't free, but they can pay for themselves many times over if you have a problem.

What should be in your home remodeling contract?

Most contract forms have spaces where most of the important information concerning the project can be entered. A typical form might ask you to fill in these items:

• Start date
• Finish date or time required to complete the project
• Total cost of the job
• How payments are to be made -- at the completion of the project or as each phase is finished
• Whether there will be any retainer and if so, how much and for how long
• Customer allowances, if applicable
• Anything the homeowner is expected to provide

There will normally be a space provided for the scope of work to be described in detail. If there isn't enough room, feel free to add an attachment as this is one of the most important parts of your contract. Describing exactly what is to be accomplished during the project can eliminate possible misunderstandings and ensure that you and the contractor are working toward the same goal.

If you add an attachment, specify that there is another document on the primary form. The contractor and you should both sign the attached scope of work.

Types of contracts

There are many different types of contracts used in the construction and remodeling industries. Here are two of the simplest and, therefore, most popular:

• Fixed sum -- This is where there is an agreed upon cost before the project starts. The advantage of this type of contract is that you don't have any unpleasant surprises when the job is finished. The disadvantage is that the remodeling company comes out ahead if the costs are less than estimated.
• Cost of the work plus a fee -- These contracts are set up for the homeowner to pay for the contractor's labor, any materials used during the project, and a fee that is usually based on a percentage of the total job cost. This can be a good type of arrangement if you're using a reputable remodeling company that has their labor costs under control. An "amount not to exceed" should also be specified as you don't want your contractor thinking they just hit the lottery.

It's always a good idea to have an attorney check your contracts prior to signing on the dotted line -- especially if the remodeling company makes a lot of changes to the document.

Cyber Monday has passed and Black Friday is fast becoming a distant memory … at least for this holiday season. Is your shopping done or do you still have a few hard-to-buy-for gifts to find?

If those remaining presents are for DIYers, one quick trip to your local home improvement store could complete your holiday shopping. Of course, if you've been good this year, there's no reason why a present to yourself shouldn't find its way into the shopping cart.

Holiday gifts any DIYer can use

Regardless of their skill level, here are five gifts that should bring joy to any DIYer on your holiday list:

1. Werner 3' step stand -- Werner is well known for their high quality step and extension ladders -- many roofing, painting, and siding contractors use them on a daily basis. The company incorporates the same commitment to safety and attention to detail in this handy 3' step stand. The miniature ladder is ideal for home improvement jobs where a little extra height is needed, but a full blown stepladder isn't required.
2. Paint brush and roller cleaner -- Just about every DIYer enjoys painting, but cleaning up after the job is complete can be another matter. A paint brush and roller cleaner makes drying wet brushes and roller covers a breeze and helps to ensure they're ready for the next project. The tool spins the water used for cleaning away -- much easier on your favorite DIYer's arm than all that vigorous shaking.
3. Heavy duty stapler -- What do fiberglass batt insulation, low-voltage wiring, and holiday lights all have in common? Installing them and many other items during home improvement projects can be much easier with a heavy duty stapler. Arrow is probably the best known company when it comes to high quality construction staple guns. They offer a full line of manual and electric models that make ideal stocking stuffers.
4. Multi-tip screwdriver -- Few things can be as frustrating during a home improvement job than realizing you've grabbed the wrong screwdriver for the project -- especially if you're at the top of a ladder or a long distance from your tool box. Save the DIYer on your holiday list from this experience with a multi-tip screwdriver. They're available from many manufacturers and most have an assortment of tips stored in their handles. Switching from a Phillips to a slotted tip can be done in a matter of seconds.
5. Wood level -- While any type of level makes a great gift for a DIYer, a unit made from mahogany or another wood species can be beautiful as well as functional. Wood levels usually last many years with proper care and can be passed down to the next DIYer in the family.

Holiday shopping is easy when you have DIYers on your list. And if you're no slouch in the home improvement department yourself, putting this list where Santa can see it couldn't hurt.

Framing a room addition or finished basement is just about the ultimate in DIY home improvement jobs. You now have justification for all those new power tools on your shelves and another project notch can be added to that tool belt that's beginning to show some wear. You can even go to the hardware store with sawdust in your hair and sporting a band-aid or two that DIYers so proudly wear.

However, as you stand back to admire how straight the walls studs appear and the alignment of the headers, don't forget a framing detail that many DIYers often overlook. The job isn't complete until all the blocking, nailers, and fire-stopping components are in place.

A quick guide to blocking, nailers, and fire-stopping

What is one of the signs of a good framing job? If you ask a trim carpenter, sheetrock contractor, or building inspector, they might say it's whether all the blocking, nailers, and fire-stopping are in the correct locations. What exactly are these framing components and how do you know where they're supposed to go? Here's a guide that should answer those questions:

Nailers are often needed at the end of a ceiling.

• Blocking. Have you ever had trouble locating a stud while attempting to hang a picture? If so, that's a perfect example of why blocking can be so important to a trim carpenter. Blocks are pieces of lumber installed prior to sheetrock to provide adequate support for fixtures and hardware that may be installed later. An experienced framer usually nails in blocking for wall cabinets, handrail brackets, and bath hardware once the room framing is complete. A good rule of thumb is: if you know something is going to be hung on a wall sometime in the future, make sure blocking is there to help carry the weight.
• Nailers.  These framing components are appropriately named as their function is to provide a nailing anchor for sheetrock, paneling, or any other type of finish material. Installing wall studs at 16-inch centers and ceiling joists every 24 inches provides adequate nailing surfaces in most areas of a room. However, every so often measurements don't quite work out and the end of a sheetrock board is left to dangle -- usually at the end of a wall or ceiling. Installing a nailer to support the end of the board takes care of the problem and you've made your sheetrock contractor's job much easier.

Nailers provide a nailing surface for sheetrock.

• Fire-stopping. One of the keys to avoiding a total loss in the event of a fire is to slow down the flames until the fire department arrives. The fire-stopping done with lumber during the framing stage of construction is designed to close-off avenues a fire can use to quickly spread. Fire-stopping is normally done at chases that contain ductwork or plumbing and between floor levels. Codes vary by jurisdiction so check with your local building inspector to find out where fire-stopping should be installed on your project.

Installing blocking, nailers, and fire-stopping properly can make the rest of your project much easier. Also, you now have a few more framing terms that can be casually dropped into conversations at your local home improvement store.