I am remodeling a second floor bathroom in an Victorian house est 1030's. The bathroom tile was put on with cement blobs about 2 inches thick behind it. It almost looks like cement patties because there are gaps in each corner of the tile corners of the old 4x4 tiles. My guess is that the cement was used to build out the tiles to fit the tub area. now I am retiling the bath and I see behind the tiles this matrix of cement blobs do I close up the holes /gaps with more cement or leave it as it is, I am replacing it with the same size 4x4 squares although today's tiles are thinner. My fear is that the grout may crack since the new tiles are thinner and mold and mildew will be more likely to form over time. Or put a cement board on top of that which will make the wall tile come out farther into the tub area? Is it possible to close up the gap with more cement or mastic to make no holes in the wall behind it?
I need to replace the whole package. Transom, side-lites, and door (fiberglass) along with all the trim inside and out. House is 11 years old. Door, Transom and side-lites are in good shape but the wood is bad and has leaked inside. Have patched over the years. The builder did not use the proper wood when the house was built and many homes in the neighborhood have the same issue. Lowe's tells me my door is 1/4 inch too small and I need to go with a "custom" order through them. My gut is screaming run to another Lowe's. Question is...is it really worth my time should I go with the specialist? If I do need the "custom" Lowe's door the $$ difference will be about $2,000 is it worth it?
I want to make a full wall into a half wall between the kitchen and dining room and add some cabinets and a countertop. Will doing this make it one big kitchen instead if 2 rooms? Concerned about resale value and having to state one less room. Thanks.
We're Midwesterners and will be renovating a home we bought in Atlantic City, New Jersey. What is the best roofing material for withstanding a combination of salty air and strong winds?
I'd like to grow tomatoes in an 8 x 10' greenhouse in my south-facing back yard, which is visible from many windows of the house. The sunniest area is dead center near the back fence. I'd like to plant landscaping--flowers or a hedge about 5' high-- to partially screen the greenhouse. Will that cut out too much light and warmth for the tomatoes?
We are looking at buying a house that needs a little help in the kitchen. I would like to be able to create a pass through & counter from the kitchen to the dining room which would require knocking out the top half of an interior wall. The wall now has cabinets attached to it and is a partial wall which stops at the doorway from the kitchen to the dining room. Wanted to know if there was a clear way to tell if part of a wall can be taken out when we go back to look at the house. Many thanks!!!
I currently have outside storm windows over my inside wood windows. They are falling apart and need to be replaced. Should I get one whole new window or look for just storms? What is the best mid-grade replacement window? My house is not sided and has wooden cedar shakes on the outside. If I put in replacement windows, they will cover the painted trim around the edge of the window that matches the trim on the house and it will be all white. Then there will be no contrast around the window. A storm window will not cover that wood but I'm told storms are old news.
We just want it very low maintenance and to look presentable. Should we take down all the tile on walls and floor, or should we just take down the bathtub tiles and put something that is less maintenance than grout and tile? What are some low maintenance options?
After deciding to add deep color (garnet) to the master bedroom that is 15 x 20 I was okay with the contractor needing two gallons of paint max to do the job. Well after 5 gallons of paint (in addition to white primer) I am not happy and ready to do the job myself. The materials are excellent quality. I need to know how to go about correcting this wrong? Would it be better to try another contractor? This one has done good work, has good references, but come to find out not that experienced in dark paints. Thanks.
What is the proper way and what material should be used to insulate a crawl space? The floor of the crawl space is dirt and about 2 to 3 feet high. It is accessed by small passegeways in the foundation. We live in northern New Jersey and have fairly cold winters.