I need to replace the whole package. Transom, side-lites, and door (fiberglass) along with all the trim inside and out. House is 11 years old. Door, Transom and side-lites are in good shape but the wood is bad and has leaked inside. Have patched over the years. The builder did not use the proper wood when the house was built and many homes in the neighborhood have the same issue. Lowe's tells me my door is 1/4 inch too small and I need to go with a "custom" order through them. My gut is screaming run to another Lowe's. Question is...is it really worth my time should I go with the specialist? If I do need the "custom" Lowe's door the $$ difference will be about $2,000 is it worth it?
I had a leak/flood recently, had to get rid of old linoleum and carpet. Now the concrete floor is exposed. Fans dried out the place for 4-6 days. I want to put engineered wood flooring on top of the concrete slab. Due to the moisture from flood, do you recommend just a moisture barrier sealer, or sheetings before putting on the flooring? How about plywood first? The place was soaked overnight. Moisture crept up walls 8 inches. I heard it's good to put plywood planks first, or a vapour barrier to seal concrete first. For the sealer, the flooring guy wants $1000, isn't that excessive?
We have an all brick colonial in Cheverly, MD (just outside Washington, DC). We want to add a small two-story addition on the back of the house. The footprint of the addition would be about 15' x 8' (length parallel to house x length perpendicular to house), a rectangular strip on the back of the house. The first floor would expand the kitchen (currently 10' x 7) to be 10' x 15', with one window over the sink. The rest of the first floor addition would be a new 5' x 8' powder room with one window. The second floor would have a full bath above the powder room portion (with one window) and a large walk-in closet above the expanded 8' part of the kitchen (no windows). So, about 120 sf per floor (=240 sq total). This would require removing two stories of the brick wall. Decent siding, not brick. Probably would have to pour a foundation. I would demo the current kitchen myself. I'm thinking about having a contractor build the addition and getting all the plumbing, electrical, gas in the right places for the new kitchen and bathrooms. They would sheet rock it and then I would be the general contractor for the new kitchen and bathrooms (might do some easy stuff myself, might not finish out the second story bathroom right away). I have a good idea for costs on the kitchen and bathrooms once the space is built. What might it cost to build this two-story addition so it is ready to have the kitchen and bathrooms put in? Second, if we could not afford it all at once, another idea is to only do the first story part of the addition and in the future add the second story (the full bath and walk-in closet). This would of course mean the second story brick would remain in place while the first floor would be removed. Does it even make sense to do this and try to add a second story to the addition later? It seems like that would be more tricky structurally? Thanks for your help.
Our recessed 8'd x 20'w cement-floored rear north-facing patio is covered by our roof. This makes our living areas dark. We'd like to cut back the roof, replace it with polycarbonate panels, and close the wide side with 3' high walls with screens on top. Voila--a sunroom! What roof supports are needed, and what's a ballpark figure for materials and labor?
It took us six years to save $35,000 for a kitchen remodeling in our 70-year-old home. I'm so afraid we'll spend the money and not get what we want. What do kitchen designers charge for consulting, and how can they show us what it will look like?
On a chilly, windy day last January I ran my hand around the window frames of our typical two-story home. Eight out of fourteen double-pane windows felt drafty, mostly those with condensation between the panes. The 5'h x 8'w living room window was one of them. Overall cost-wise, including utilities, does it make sense to only do window replacement as needed, or should we replace all of them now?
Our medium-grade oak cabinets have simple rectangular raised panels. The lower ones are scratched and dinged from our rambunctious 8-year old's wheelchair. What type of cabinet refacing would be more impact-resistant, and roughly what would it cost for 20 linear feet of lower cabinets only? We'd use laminate for new countertops.
We're on a really tight budget but our east and west-facing house has big temperature swings. Window replacement seems logical. There are four 4 x 6's, three 4 x 8's, and two 3 x 4' windows. We're pretty handy and will remove and replace the windows ourselves. What window type and budget do you suggest?
The same ceramic tile that's in our kitchen extends into our dining room, which makes the dining room look too "kitcheny" to me. The kitchen and dining room are two steps down from the living room, which has beautiful hardwood floors. Must the tile flooring be removed to match the dining room flooring to the living room? The dining room is 10 x 12'. What's a rough cost for labor for removing tile and installing hardwood?
Our kit-built sunroom has room for a 2-person above-ground hot tub. Electricity and water are available in the adjoining kitchen wall. There's cement flooring. The sunroom door would provide venting. Drainage and soundproofing the pump are the only problems I see. What costs besides the tub might we have?