Our recessed 8'd x 20'w cement-floored rear north-facing patio is covered by our roof. This makes our living areas dark. We'd like to cut back the roof, replace it with polycarbonate panels, and close the wide side with 3' high walls with screens on top. Voila--a sunroom! What roof supports are needed, and what's a ballpark figure for materials and labor?
We'd like to do some basement remodeling but the previous owners once had 12 to 15 inches of Red River flood water downstairs. Probably the water came in the high hopper windows, as the fairly level yard had about five inches of water. The main floor, 12 inches above ground level, stayed dry. Would building 24-inch-high cement walls around the window wells keep the basement dry?
Even on a mildly windy day, the new metal chimney surround makes a banging sound. The wind pushes the side in-and-out, which causes a sound like a drum. Is there any type of brace, support or liner that the contractor can install to prevent the sides from being indented and springing back into place? Thanks for the help.
I live in a condo that was constructed in 1980. All buildings are 2 stories with 8 units per building. Each unit has its own entry. So the buildings are similar to a town home but smaller like a condo. My unit in May had some siding removed and there was a lot of water damage underneath. Only one unit had water damage inside the condo due to the siding leaking. The condo board has decided to replace the siding. However, they would also like to replace the windows at the same time. The home association does not have enough money saved so they will have to raise the monthly rates significantly. My opinion is we need new siding since we have had problems with the original siding. The windows haven't caused any water damage so we don't need them. I understand it would be easier to replace both at the same time. But the amount they want to increase our fees is too high to do both. Without seeing our buildings, is it okay to replace siding first then replace windows at a later time like 5 years from now?
I was thinking of painting my now discolored vinyl siding that has weathered for the last 20 years - as opposed to replacement. There has been no leaks and other than discoloration, the material has no cracks and is still very pliable. One of my friends told me about Moorlife Acrylic Flat Paint N105 as an option which can be tinted color-match.
I'm doing a home addition in Minnesota (a small bathroom) and I want to know the right way to perform an electrical load calculation for the box. I've priced commercial electrical load calculation software and it's more expensive than I thought. Do you know of any online load calculators?
We need to install grab bars in the shower stall at my parents home. It is a typical shower bay that has no sheetrock behind it and there is a gap between the bay and the studs. Is there a way to install the grab bars so they are sturdy? We are concerned about putting the screw through the fiberglass and pushing it back into the stud. This could break the bay. Hope this makes sense. Any suggestions would be helpful.
I like the ease of using latex paint because it cleans up without a lot of to-do. But I recently read that latex can take as much as three weeks to cure properly. In our house, there's too much traffic to wait around. Can I use oil paint for my kitchen cabinets, or is that only for experts? Is there a wide difference in cost?
The sink in the bathroom of my St. Cloud home has a large crack along the side of the bowl. It is rather small right now, and I wonder if I can fix it? Or will I have to replace the sink?
What type of drill bit can be used to cut-in holes on ceramic for wall/shower plumbing? I Need to cut holes in ceramic tile for pedestal sink plumbing and shower components. Can a Rotozip be used? If so, what bit? Any info you can pass along would be great. Thanks!